Category Archives: Venice Instructions

Oh, Toto, I don’t think we’re even in Italy anymore.

Corteo in Maschera sul Canal Grande.

peata.jpgThis Sunday, January 27th, to do their part to inaugurate Carnevale, the area remiere will form a Corteo (procession) of traditional Venetian rowing craft, from caorline to mascarete, cruising up the Grand Canal. The procession will commence at 10:15 at the Punta della Dogana, and will have at its center una peata, one of the largest barche a remo there are (see the video of the frozen canals in the post below). For the procession, the peata will serve as a floating stage for acrobats, musicians, and even flamethowers. As is the tradition, all us vogatori will be in costume and si fermeranno along the way for refreshments, at the Salute or the Accademia or the Rialto, until they reach the Fondamenta Cannaregio around midday, where they’ll halt public transport for the festivities. There’ll be bancarelle serving traditional Venetian Carnevale fare. (Fritelle, anyone?) Head that way yourself to take part in the festivities, boat or no boat, it will be as Venetian as you can get these days, and a great contrast to the subsequent 17th century reenactments to follow as Carnevale progresses.

bigpeata_01.jpgOn a recent Sunday morning I rowed on the Canal with friends (no corteo), and it was perfect: few taxis and no transport boats, only the normal vaporetti and other vogatori taking advantage of Canal quiet.) In contrast, this should be quite a spectacle; keep your fingers crossed that the weather holds.

Do take lots of photos (I’ll be the one in the costume).

A footnote: Out of respect for the families of the two workers that suffocated in the hold of a freighter in Porto Marghera a few days ago, the Saturday morning festivities that normally launch Carnevale in Piazza San Marco have been rescheduled. I understand that the volo del Angelo (which won’t be an angel at all, as you may have heard) will fly instead on Sunday. Me par giusto.

For official Venice Carnival 2008 info, check the official Venezia Carnevale 2008 website.

1, 2, 3. Finalmente.

On January 21st, Line 82 will become Line 2, keeping the same stops and schedules. Line 1 and 2 are now the two lines that traverse the Grand Canal. Makes sense, doesn’t it?

Actually, they will be Line 1, Line 2, and the new Line 3, with Line 3 being reserved for use by those in possession of a CartaVenezia or Tessera di Abbonamento. Either of these will now set you back a healthy €40 for a new issue, with tickets and passes to be purchased in addition to that. If you hadn’t picked up yours for the original €10, you have unfortunately missed the boat. I wonder whether this is in reaction to too many tourists opting for the Abbonamento instead of the VeniceCard or regular hourly passes (I’m just gossiping, of course; I have nothing remotely official to support my suspicions). With this rate hike, though, it’s certainly no longer economical to opt for an Abbonamento unless you are truly a frequent visitor or here for a long stay.

The new Line 3, which will depart every 20 minutes from Piazzale Roma, has been created principally for those arriving daily from the mainland to work in Venice. It will cover the same stops as Line 1, and end at San Marco. You can distinguish these craft both by the number, and the blue bow…fiocco azzuro, the color that will be associated with all the information available for the line and schedules. New schedules will be available January 19…just in time for Carnevale…or you can download one here. This will evidently add seven new vaporetti to the Grand Canal traffic, it’s this fact that gives me pause: that’s what we need, more waves on the Grand Canal. So much for the voga until after 8p.

There was a ridiculous lamentation for “the poor tourist” over this new line recently in the London Herald Trib. Macchè. The “poor tourist” will have at least one vaporetto departing Piazzale Roma every ten minutes, certainly enough to get them where they want to go. It’s just that now, when a group of travelers’ enormous luggage blocks the front seats that are meant for the elderly, the former will be spared the disapproving looks of the Venetian vecie (and perhaps an accompanying schiaffo or two delivered by same. Manca mal).

Don’t forget, if you have any questions about the vaporetto, lines, tickets, and All Things ACTV during your visit, never hesitate to call HelloVenezia at +39 041 2424.

Sara's singing Sunday.

zenobio I must let anyone know who might be in town and might be interested, that the two excellent musicians who exhibit such extraordinary patience while instructing us to sing, and accompanying us while give it our best efforts will be performing in their own right this Sunday at 9p, in the beautiful Palazzo Ca’ Zenobio. The Palazzo is behind and down the fondamenta from the Campo San Margherita; its spacious gardens, grounds and palace are worth a tour with or without music. And the music? Mozart, Schumann, Rossini, Bellini. The usual stuff…extraordinarily performed. It’s free, but if you’d like to attend, best reserve a spot by calling +39 347 421 5867; here’s a map to the Palazzo.

Zenobio2-1

Oceans of plastic.

A friend who saw the last post just sent this article, describing it as “compelling, well-written, and of course, terrifying;” it does seem an appropriate addendum to the fountain rant. So many travelers are curious as to whether the lagoon water here is “clean”…this article seems to put things in perspective a bit:

www.bestlifeonline.com

Don’t worry, we’ll be back to cats and cicchetti very soon…