Category Archives: About Venice

What is a calle, anyway?

Late-night Acqua Alta

Just got an SMS predicting acqua alta of between 105 – 110 cm (due to a disturbance in the Atlantic, of all things) for late this evening, cresting at 11:40 pm. If you were here, and planning to go out for dinner, it would be advisable to take your boots for the walk home.

This video was shot in Cannaregio during the historic acqua alta of Dec 1, 2008 (156 cm, compared tonight’s predicted max of 110), and I think it tells the story pretty well. As extreme as it was, within about three hours after the video was shot, the tide had receded — leaving a big, big mess.

 

p.s. There’s even a bookstore named Libreria Acqua Alta, just off Campo S.M. Formosa down Calle Larga S.M. Formosa. This eccentric store has a gondola as its centerpiece that perhaps could come in handy in the event of another historic tide…but that meanwhile is used for book display.

You might be Venetian if…

fondamenta.jpgYou have a dog.

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You have a dog, and you take it everywhere in giro: to the post office, in your boat, to the fresh market, into bars and restaurants, where it sits at your feet or on your lap as you chat.

You don’t walk the city with a camera or a map.

You give directions that include the bridges to cross but rarely the name of a calle or campo, and likely couldn’t name many unless they are principal thoroughfares or something you walk yourself on a regular basis.

You don’t try and board the vaporetto before the other folks have gotten off.

You don’t throw trash on the ground, but you throw your cigarette butt in the canal.

You never use the term Zanipolo to refer to SS Giovani e Paolo.

You’d never consider sitting on a bridge, a fondamenta, any steps, or in general eating anything anywhere except your house or a locale that serves food, and although are horrified at people who do, but would never consider saying anything to them.

You have no problem, however, informing someone in no uncertain terms that it is not acceptable to place garbage on the calle or fondamenta on a Sunday, knowing full well it won’t be picked up until Monday, and that we will have to smell your refuse all day long. It’s simply bad manners, maleducato. (Hanno anche ragione poi, feel free to follow their lead).

You know exactly how long it will take to get from San Stae to Rio Terà Secondo, from Via Garibaldi to Campo S.M. Formosa, from the Fondamente Nove to the Miracoli, and so on.

You’re rarely, if ever, late.

You have your own approach to navigating past endless groups of visitors who saunter 4-wide across narrow calli (as they don’t understand that there are people behind them that have to be somewhere).

You not only wear brightly colored pants of orange or green, you look good in them.

You’re familiar with the city, but with few of the hundreds of hotels and ad-hoc lodgings that have sprung up (and continue to spring) in recent years.

You look at a €100 price tag and think, “200.000 lira!?!”

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(Hoping this will be an on-going list.)

Le Bandiere: Flags Swirl over San Marco

We watched as the ships’ masts were revitalized this summer, but now, look what they were being prepared for. Sundays only, I believe, but splendid, no? Venezia di una volta (OK, with other than the EU and Italian flags, but you get my point). Should even be more impressive once the current Basilica and Piazza construction is compete.

bandiere_sanmarco.jpg

bandiera_veneziana.jpg

I rushed past a store in the center where you can pick up a Venetian flag with appropriate streamers, up the Mercerie across from Cartier and Luisa Spagnoli, for €30. However, a friend reminds me that the best place is Nicolaj, “the sporting goods/boating store at the corner of Fondamenta delle Erbe and Calle delle Erbe, between Campo Santa Marina and Campo SS. Giovanni e Paolo; they always have beautiful flags outside. It’s one of my favorite angles in the city and I have spent many an hour waiting to capture the waving flags as they opened and flew in the wind!”

Nicolaj (with the j pronounced as an i, BTW)
Nicolaj N. & C. Bandiere, Salvagenti, Copertoni Impermeabili
Calle delle Erbe
Cannaregio 6103
041 522 3844

OK, I think we’re covered in the flag department!

Keeping an eye on the Grand Canal

Check out ARGOS , the new system for keeping watch over the Grand Canal. It’s pretty self-explanatory, and quite fun. Just like any congestion map, colors on maps to indicate the amount of traffic and the speed, and the closed-circuit cameras provide expansive views up and down the length of the Canal…and a lot clearer than the available web cams. The new Ponte della Costituzione is specatacular viewed from above, in fact.

Whether or not we can get them to issue tickets to the boats over the speed limit, that’s another thing entirely…

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“Quarantine” a Venetian word? Sì.

It’s from quarantena, the period of 40 days that cargo and merchandise arriving from faraway lands was sequestered on the island of Lazaretto Nuovo. All sorts of treatments were applied to the goods held in storage there in the hopes of extinguishing whatever bestie might be lurking that could potentially carry the dreaded bubonic plague to the city. Venice was decimated by two major plagues barely fifty years apart (1576 and 1630), a factor which certainly contributed in no small part to the Republic’s eventual demise.

The English word origins don’t stop there, of course. It’s one of the first uses of the word word “lazaretto” to refer to a hospital or place of quarantine for those with infectious diseases (a bibical allusion to Lazurus). You were shuttled to Lazzaretto Vecchio if you developed symptoms of the plaque to recover…or not. In fact, just last year mass graves were discovered on Lazzaretto Vecchio; the graves were utilized not as a result of disrespect for the dead, but of the number and speed at which people were dying.

On Lazzaretto Nuovo however, evidently sailors from Crete, Constantinople, pass the time by leaving wonderful recounts scribbled attentively across the wall; they seem to be the ancient equivalent of “I was here.” They are very well restored, and almost always allude to events of the day and affirming they were experienced in buona compania. Even then, it seems that hanging out with good friends was a highly-valued activity.

There is much more to see on Lazzaretto Nuovo, including a still-operational vera da pozzo with one of the few engraved lions that Napoleon missed in his manic quest to obliterate them all. You may tour Lazzaretto Nuovo on Saturdays and Sundays in either the morning or late afternoon from April through October, other days by appointment.

For more information stop by the tourist office, visit the website, www.lazzarettonuovo.com or call +39 041 244 4011. To reach the island, take Linea 13 for Sant’Erasmo from the Fondamente Nove, and ask the ACTV personell to let you know when you should get off.

One last note: take mosquito repellent. As well-cared for as the island is, it’s still a bit difficult to keep the bestie under control. Now we know why they abandoned Torcello…