Walks Inside Italy are a group of expert, personable guides who have joined forces to offer their services for small group tours in the three most visited cities in Italy: Venice, Florence, and Rome.
The guides of Walks Inside Italy who have degrees in specific studies, and are authorized by the regions they work in — which means they’ve all passed the rigorous, required exams. They’re also Italian (although their English is probably better than yours), and local, which adds yet another dimension on everything you see and experience with them.
The guides of Walks Inside Italy have been bringing insight to travelers for decades, and like nothing better than helping visitors discover the very best their cities and country have to offer. Their small group tour options offer travelers an intimate group tour experience (no umbrellas, thank you) while keeping prices within reach.
Welcome, Walks! Grazie for sponsoring LivingVenice.
The news has got around by now the the Alajmo brothers of Le Calandre fame have taken the one-and-only Ristorante Quadri* under their wing — and, as is their habit, they are aiming for the sky.
Most know the famosissimo Quadri for the caffè; others have dined at the historic, classic restaurant upstairs, the only one on Piazza. The old girl has gotten quite a lift since Max (the youngest chef ever to receive three stars from Michelin) and Raf set up shop earlier this year, and deservedly so.
Some things haven’t changed. The massive Murano chandelier still illuminates intricate ironwork and red brocade tufted walls; in the evening, light shimmers through Roman shades draped over wide windows perched above the Piazza. But look closer: the new drapes are a dramatic gauzy black, classic linen tablecloths are knotted around and underneath to expose gracefully carved pedestals; gotò inspired glassware freshens elegant place settings as do transparent red bread dishes in the form of a painter’s palette, testament that chef Massimiliano’s artistry extends beyond the kitchen; you’ll discover it in almost every aspect of the restaurants’ decor, design, and artwork.
That is precisely what inspired the 12 courses we were served that warm summer’s day at the Quadri. The LuceFluida menu coincides with the Biennale; Le Calandre and the Quadri each serve a different versions through November 27. You could even consider them collateral exhibitions.
The intention, according to Massimiliano, “is to bring the concept of light to food;” he calls it an edible art event, and so it is. That little red palette bread dish might as well have been loaded with textures and tastes from mostardo to mousse, from creamy to crunchy croccante, from delicate to hearty, peppery to sweet to spicy to positively explosive. You don’t have much trouble imagining the kitchen as artist studio, with the cooks working along side Executive Chef Silvio Giavedoni whisking and swiping and searing and dotting to create each portata effortlessly and expertly, swept out just at right moment to present to the delighted guest.
Presentation, in fact, takes on a completely different meaning in the context of the Lucefluida meal. There is an accompanying notebook, with whimsical designs and inspired phrases and poems for each course — all by Max’s hand, of course — and the possibility to record lingering impressions as they come to you. Invention isn’t limited to only the fare — but it’s best not to get any more specific, it’ll just ruin the surprise. (There are quite a few surprises, in fact; it pays to stay flexible.)
Of course there is a traditional menu as well as two other tasting menus; don’t expect the Alajmo team to contain themselves there either, Biennale or no. Suffice it to say the the meal is extraordinary, right down to the wine pairings which open with the Reims Vieille France Champagne to the Anselmi passito for dessert. A meal at the Quadri is an airy, yet intensely memorable celebration of abbinamento, the deft combining of all aspects of the dining experience, in an ambience unique in all the world. Squisito.
Ristorante Quadri (upstairs)
caffequadri.it
Lunch, 12:30 – 2:30 pm
Dinner, 7:30 – 10:30 pm
Closed Monday
*One footnote: the restoration/renovation of the Grancaffè downstairs is underway as we speak. Look for news on that soon.
Whether yellow, blue or bigeye, raw or cooked, when the red flesh of tender tuna arrives at our table, these tiny, sturdy, perfectly positioned, radiant yellow fins that propelled this magnificent fish across ocean depths have long been discarded. But what an impression they make when still intact — and what would it be like to see them in use…
from the upcoming Eating Venice iPhone & iPad app — stay tuned!
Translated from a post by regular eno-contributor Fabrizio Gallino of enofaber.com where he relates an encounter with an unknown commodity, a Burgundy white…
Burgundy.
Immediately you think of “big red,” of aged pinot noir, of the almost mystical elements that speak to you, that tell you stories. That’s of course because the land of Burgundy is a little like the ancient and mysterious East, from whence merchants returned and recounted to the rest of those who were unable to travel there.
So when find yourself instead before a bottle of white from that promised land, knowing absolutely nothing about it, you feel caught a bit off guard.
You think of the everyday Chardonnay, done very well perhaps, but certainly far from the poetry and mysticism of the Burgundy reds, right?
Jane, you ignorant slut…
If every Chardonnay was like this Chardonnay, I swear that I would drink only Chardonnay from now on…
To be honest, opening this young bottle now was a bit like committing infanticide, but I just couldn’t resist. Given to me by a friend who knows Burgundy like the back of his hand, this one reveals itself to be mystical libation that first lifts you up then pummels you with its myriad soft contrasts. Verticality and horizontality, already round but always vibrante, sharp. Light and weightless in appearance, but as powerful as Cassius Clay in substance, this wine stuns and dazes you — in the most pleasurable way.
And still you hope to find a bit more in the glass…
I wonder, if after only 2 years it was così, like this, what would it be like in 2, 4, 6…and 10 years?
The wine is Puligny-Montrachet AOC 1er Cru Le Cailleret 2009, produced by Domaine Michel Bouzereau et Fils. Located in the Côte du Beaune, Bouzereau has vineyards in Meursault and in Puligny-Montrachet, the area producing whites almost exclusively, and almost exclusively of 100% Chardonnay. This wine comes from the 1° cru of Le Cailleret, located west-nw and just up the slope from the village of Puligny-Montrachet. (Don’t confuse this cru with Les Caillerets, a tiny 1° cru on the northern edge of Meursault.)
This sprawling campo with numerous late-night locales creates an ideal environment for students and other can meet and hang out. The only problem is — given that stone and water surfaces carry and amplify even the most subdued conversation — anyone within earshot can’t get a lick of sleep.
What’s a mayor to do? Guest contributor and journalist Gioia Tiozzo of 100x100venezia.it reports.
Venice, August 10 – It’s decided, at least for now. In Campo Santa Margherita and San Pantalon, bars, restaurants, pizzerias and gelaterie will lower their saracinesche [rolling metal storefront gates] and send everyone a casa. It’s a bold — if risky — new move to find a solution to managing the nightlight in the only campo In Venice where masses of youth congregate every evening [especially in summer]. The order will remain in force for the next two months, then reevaluated. Mayor Orsoni has left for the holidays, and the merchants, who certainly will not stand silent and watch, are left holding the bag.
The issues at stake are not insignificant. 29 enterprises — as many types of activities are affected by the order — will be left to deal with a substantial loss of revenue and possible redundancy. If kitchens have to close at 11pm, some cooks and servers could also be left at home.
Certainly the mayor had to do something. According to the findings of ARPAV, the noise level in Campo Santa Margherita at that hour is equal to that of an industrial area. It’s easy to understand the [ongoing] irritation of [the campo’s] residents, who need to sleep at a reasonable hour. Hence the drastic decision.
“That’s the way you kill a town” say business owners, who yesterday morning gathered at Ca ‘Farsetti to get the May0r’s attention. They want more dialogue and a discussion board to seek an alternative solution together.
The problem, in fact, according to operators, it is not up to the opening night of the premises, rather the lack of control over activity such as shouting, bongo playing, etc. They would have never come up with such a drastic solution; a better one would be to wet the floor at night (as is done in other Italian cities), thus discouraging groups from sitting on the wet ground chattering away into the wee hours.
Walks Inside Italy are a group of expert, personable guides who have joined forces to offer their services for small group tours in the three most visited cities in Italy: Venice, Florence, and Rome.
