Category Archives: Vita Venexiàn

Mi stago ben…

Michela's gone iPhone with Venice eatery on-"tap" app.

Screen shot 2009-12-10 at 2.52.30 PM.pngWe knew she’d do it; it was only a matter of time. Michela Scibilia, one of our most reliable go-to girls for Many Things Venice has made it that much more convenient to have her eating and drinking preferences at the tip of your fingertips…if you have an iPhone, anyway.

Screen shot 2009-12-10 at 2.52.22 PM.pngTapVenice Eating may not be the most imaginative title ever, but it certainly forthright and more English and SEO friendly than Osterie e dintorni. That’s the perfectly logical title of the first Italian pub by Michela that I picked up over fourteen years ago to find my way around consumable Venice (the English title is Venice Osterie). Since she has also penned Venice: Botteghe and  A comprehensive guide to the island of Murano. TapVenice could be the first in a series…ya think?)

Screen shot 2009-12-10 at 2.53.28 PM.pngNot surprisingly, the app is very well-organized and quite navigable: her recs are listed in alpha order, but you can also perform a multiple-criteria search: look for something near your current location, with outdoor seating or good wines or a kid-friendly spot, say; and of course, set your language for English or Italian (that’s right, locals rely on her too). There’s also a glossary for any “foresti” – Italian or otherwise – who might not be familiar with Venetian foods and dishes.

Screen shot 2009-12-10 at 2.53.04 PM.png

From the list, you can click on any eatery and discover a photo, description, relative price range, address, telephone number (reserve, please…and then show up), closing days, with both on- and offline maps, which means you don’t have to be online to get a locale’s location.

I’ve downloaded and installed the TapVenice app, I’ll be testing it out in the next days and will note any idiosyncrasies, should I find any. With Michela’s track record I don’t expect to, however.

For more images and info, click through to the TapVenice Eating web site. The app is $2.99 and available on the iTunes Store.

Any plans for additional formats, Michela? IMWTK… 😉

Peek inside Palazzo Dario

Palazza Dario - insideEveryone knows the exotic Palazzo Dario and the unhappy ends met by some of its owners, as endlessly recounted in guidebooks and Grand Canal tours. You may also have spotted the inscription on the garden wall in Campiello Barbaro behind it, installed there by one-time-owner and extensive renovator, the Contessa De La Baume-Pluvinel:

In questa casa antica dei Dario,
Henri de Régnier—
poeta di Francia—
venezianamente visse e scrisse—
anni 1899-1901.

“In this antique home of Dario,
Henri de Régnier — poet of France —
‘Venetianly’ lived and wrote —
from 1899-1901.”

You’ve probably only seen the inside, though, if you’ve inquired about purchasing it.

This Corbis gallery of photographs by Massimo Listri offers a rare look at the palazzo’s extraordinarily opulent interior. You can see how someone might be tempted to risk their fortune to live there.

Finally, for more background on this intriguing Palazzo, take a look at scholar Diana Wright’s notes.

The Voga Girls: We are VIVA

I’ve been talking and writing about the voga alla veneta, the unique style of Venetian rowing, for some time. In my mind, it’s the world’s best exercise. Whole body, no impact, as aerobic as you want it to be, practiced often in compania (with friends), but it’s also possible alone. And anyone will tell you, whether you’re here by birth or by choice, there’s nothing that will make you feel more Venetian that rowing a traditional Venetian boat across the lagoon or through the intricate rii, or small canals, of the city.

That’s becoming difficult, however. The lagoon and the city canals are being churned up more and more by motorboats not designed for its shallow waters that exceed the speed limits more often than not without a thought. They create incessant waves that chisel away at the city walls and make passage impossible for the traditional boats that cause no damage (including the gondola) designed hundreds of years ago specifically to navigate the lagoon and the city’s canals.

Various organizations have tried to fight this highly damaging phenomenon…and being devoted both to the city and the voga, we have now formed one ourselves. We are VIVA: Voga per l’Identità Veneta, and our goal is to celebrate and document all we can about the culture of this unique rowing style (including the production of the documentary). We’d like to join together with the “Venetians of the World” to try and convince broader interests (and there are quite a few) that motorboats and row boats can now only peacefully co-exist, that the more they do, not only will Venice and its lagoon will be better off…Venice will be even more the city travelers expect when they arrive.

Looking for la vera Venezia? The one everyone thinks is disappearing? This is just a small part of it….and it’s not going anywhere. Meet just a few of the women that are members of our new association. We are VIVA:

Membership in VIVA is not limited to residents of Venice…quite the contrary. We’d not only love to have you along, we need you. You, the occasional visitor, the part-time resident, the scholar, the Venice lover from beyond: too often, your voices are heard far more than that of the local who may not stand to profit from the tourist trade.

So, please consider joining us. The more we can demonstrate to the Comune how many people living beyond the lagoon to whom this is important, the better figura we’ll make as we strive to come to some d’accordo.

Join VIVA:  10 minutes, €10.

http://vivavogaveneta.org/

Even if you don’t join the organization, the next time you’re in Venice, keep an eye out for the traditional boats being rowed on the Grand Canal, in the side rii, or across the lagoon. Then…ask you taxi driver to slow down.

p.s. If you have cultural group that will be in Venice and would be interested in learning more about our work, the traditional craft, and perhaps even letting us row you through Venetian canals in our traditional boats, please write us.

I've been in slo-mo…

Partly due to the heat, partly due to other commitments, partly due to the occurrence of Ferragosto, posts have been slow as Christmas around here.

I’m heading for the mountains for a few days, and once I return it will be back to business as usual. In the meantime, vi ringrazio per la vostra pazienza.

See you soon!

For Donna Leon fans…

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Most Venice afficianatos can’t decide who they like more, author Donna Leon or her famossimo Commissioner Guido Brunetti — whose popularity rivals that of the Piazza San Marco itself.

In any case, you’ll be able to hear a rebroadcast of Leon’s appearance last April on KQED’s City Arts and Lectures tonight, at 8 p.m. PST, and again at 2 a.m. the following morning. If the time difference makes it inconvenient to listen live, I hear there are ways to record streaming audio…

From the KQED site, just click on 200908041548.jpg Listen Live.