Category Archives: Vita Venexiàn

Mi stago ben…

Floating Carnevale

Judging by the crowds that lined bridges as well as the number of participating boats and rowers, the Corteo Carnevale isbecoming almost as popular as the Vogalonga.

This costumed procession is held on the first weekend of the two-week long Carnevale, open to anyone and everyone that knows how to row Venetian-style and can get their hands on an oar. Costumes range from simple to ornate, sensational to silly (keep your eyes peeled for the peanut), handmade to half-baked. The procession winds its way up the Grand Canal from the Salute, and is followed by a festa in the Canale Cannaregio, with a flying rat, awards for best costume and a party running the length of the fondamenta.

For more superb photos of this spectacular event, visit vogavenezia.com

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Splashing in the Venetian New Year

An estimated 30,000 people, undeterred by the high-water forecast, amassed to joyfully herald in the New Year yesterday evening as the ankle-deep tide washed over Piazza San Marco. Half of the revellers came from the mainland, the Comune surmised; the other half were locals and in-town lodgers. From the photos it looks like most donned rubber or plastic boots or even garbage bags to ward off wet feet while enjoying the festivities and the spectacular midnight fireworks display.

Here are are the photos from New Year’s Day Gazzettino. Now, don’t you wish you were there?

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AP photo credit Luigi Costantini

Ba-aaaah-uon Anno!

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A friend from Greece (Mama Mia was shot on her island, for heaven’s sake) just sent me this photo. What it has to do with New Year’s, I’m not sure, but aren’t they the cutest things?

So, bah-ba-ah-ah-aah, 2009, and best wishes to all of us for a happy, properous – or maybe just even less challenging – 2010.

(Ba-aah…)

The sounds of sirens: acqua alta or Santa’s sleigh?

The traditional, all-fish feast at a friend’s 4th floor home on Christmas Eve was interrupted by the audio warning for the event we’d already prepared for: the arrival later that evening of the 150cm (five-foot) tide:

“Disquieting,” was the word they used to describe the sound; inquietante. Fortunately, the sirens were followed not long after by bells from the San Marco campanile signaling the beginning, consecration, and end of midnight mass. Much more hopeful and comforting, they were. Between them and the capesanti, spaghetti con peoci, gamberi, tonno, pesce spada (scallops, spaghetti with clams, shrimp, tuna, swordfish), and Pan d’Oro, our spirits were lifted in short order.

By the time I left at about 1:15 am, the water was ankle-deep at the Ponte dei Giocatoli. It deepened just before I crossed into Campo Santi Apostoli, dried up along the Strada Nova, approached calf-high on the Misericordia.

The water’s still rising as I write, and will be til about 4:30 a.m.  Good thing I’d taken my boots to dinner…

As I nod off to sleep, I can’t help but think of all the trash left on the streets that will be floating through the city canals on Christmas Day. Now, that’s disquieting. There oughta be a law.

In the meantime,

Merry Christmas to all…
and to all a dry night!

Does the Venetian lagoon ever freeze?

In 1929, it did. How cold was it?

This cold. Walk-from-Fondamente-Nove-to-Murano cold.

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1929 was a harsh winter for all of Europe…Venice included. A voga friend uploaded this archival video of Frozen Venice; they’d not experienced anything like it for over 100 years. (Check his YouTube site for more historic footage.)

Can you spot the vaporetto di una volta, from once upon a time?

After running a few errands and making it back inside just before my nose fell off, I’m still refusing to believe we’re gearing up for a similar experience this winter.

Speriamo bene (Hoping for the best)…