Perseus: Where la Bistecca Reigns
Nov 14, 2008 Beyond Venice, Eating & Drinking Venice
Even though I’m not always lucky enough to indulge in a bistecca fiorentina every time I visit, just like Pavlov’s dog, my mouth starts watering for one as soon as I settle in on a Florence-bound train. This last trip, I had the good fortune to eat at Perseus, just off the Piazza della Libertà in Florence, for the second time. We ordered nothing out of the ordinary: ribollita, bistecca Fiorentina, and funghi porcini alla griglia (I know, but we were celebrating a number of occasions that merited a splurge).
Bustling Perseo did not disappoint, neither the first time I ate there, nor this one. There are fresh-cut vegetables on the table when you arrive; nothing pretentious, but munching them as opposed to bread or grissini (breadsticks) takes less of a toll on your appetite for the real food to come. The ribollita was the perfect warm-up for the stunning Fiorentina, which arrived sitting straight up on its ossa, with sizzling, serving-sized slices surrounding it. And the porcini? Mouth-watering, abbondante, and grilled to perfection, with just a touch of oilo e sale that did nothing but enhance the flavor of these marvelous morsels. A meal fit for a Medici, te lo dico io.
Perseus is quintessential Tuscan, quintessential Florentine. Comfortable, traditional surroundings, marvelous meats and an otherwise broad menu of all-things-roasted and regional delicacies, and home-made desserts; you can drink the house Chianti along or choose from a broad finer wine selection. Staff is friendly and energetic. You really can’t go wrong.
One word of warning: la bistecca is served rare, al sangue. Period. No one will ask you how you want it cooked. A good Fiorentina Chianina is an extraordinary meat, and to overcook it would be an insult, un gran peccato (I equate it to using 18k gold to caulk the bathtub, and have the same opinion about overcooking tuna). If rare meat is not to your liking, don’t order the Fiorentina, but instead opt for any one of the other delectables (meat and vegetable dishes both) you’ll find on the menu of this simpatico locale.
Ristorante PERSEUS
via Don Manzoni, 10 (click for map)
50129 Firenze
+39 055 588 226
Open for lunch and on Sundays
€20 and up (count on €40+ for the bistecca or specialties like porcini)
Be sure to reserve!
Ardidos: Caffè e non solo
Jun 28, 2008 Eating & Drinking Venice
It’s what many places try to be, but miss the mark. A classy locale tucked away under the Ca’ Gottardi, Ardidos makes a lovely addition to the Cannaregio neighborhood (in fact, the other day owner Beatrice and Cantina co-owner Francesco were vying for who had the longest salame…this can only be a good omen for the rest of us). Ardidos is contemporary and warm decor; elegant yet casual ambience; friendly staff, great food. A nice place to be.
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Owner Beatrice is una foresta: an interior designer from Milan who, contrary to most bar owners, never served a cup of caffè in her life. The degree to which the space inspired her is evident in every angle of the brick-ceramic-glass-steel-wood decor that includes a number of exotic touches; Barbara, Stefano and other friendly staff expertly supplement Beatrice’s (pronounced Be-a-TRI-ce) lack of serving experience. Small but not cramped, a candle-lit cortile in the back allows for crowd overflow, and even offers a canal-side table for a truly Venetian repast (reserve in advance). You can snack on everything from affettati of fine salami e cheeses, choose among wines from prosecco on up; elect to sample an Ardidos caffè from all over the world, by the cup or the kilo; they even serve fresh juices and smoothies (frullati e centrifughe)…their specialty.
Tags: bars, Cannaregio, eateries, venice, wine
