Living Venice

All the Water and None of the Sand

Archive for June, 2007

Two concertini gratis: Handel, Bellini, and Donizetti at the Scuola Grande di San Teodoro

Concerti San Teodoro I am forever being asked for suggestions on where to find non-tourist Venice. My usual reply is that unfortunately it can be very difficult, especially if you don’t speak Italian. However, if you’re willing for an evening to go outside your Four Seasons comfort zone…

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Eating Venice.

In the Where Should We Go category, I’m going to begin adding entries for restaurants and eateries that are favorites of mine, along with reports of when I last visited them and why I like them. I’m not sure I’d call them “reviews,” officially; but I will tell you that I do love to eat, am picky about not only about the quality of the fare, but the service and care that’s attached to it, from the casual pizzeria on up. My favorite places are pivately owned and personally run. After your meal, you’ll definitely want to let both the server and the proprietors know if and how much you enjoyed it.

I’m not on a mission to try every restaurant in Venice, so this will be a bit of an ad-hoc list. There will be restaurants that are already quite well-known, those that are run by friends, and those with whom I have no personal connection whatsoever. The bottom line will be that you’ll (hopefully) not be disappointed should you try them.

A reminder: Most Venice eateries are quite small, with limited seating, and the good ones are no secret. You must reserve; especially in the evening, especially on the weekend, especially on common closing days. That, and if you reserve and change your mind, please, do them the courtesy to call and cancel, or have your lodging do it…even at the last minute. Manners mean more the money here; your consideration will not go unnoticed.

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  • Filed under: vita venexiàn
  • Girls just wanna . . . WIN.

     Media Horse Belmonts 412 070609 What a race.

    First filly to win the Belmont in over 100 years, first ever at a mile-and-a-half, and with such panache. Girl, you go. Here’s the article…

    http://sports.espn.go.com/sports/horse/index

    …and the race (hold on to your hats).

    You can take the girl outta Kentucky… (yeah, lulu)

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  • Filed under: beyond venice
  • The non-Biennale: Sara Bardino at an art opening at San Leonardo

    Tonight, at 6p, if you’re not headed for one of the many Biennale suorées, inaugurazioni, and other festivities held throughout the city, you might enjoy stopping by San Leonardo at 6p. The opening there is for a show with works painted by the students of a course offered by Professor Maurizio Favaretto. Sara Bardino, an extraordinary mezzosoprano (and my voice instructor) along with Davide Sibilla will be performing a variety of selections, lyric and otherwise (Voi che sapete…). Nothing amateur about this, my friends, you’d be doing yourself a favor by stopping in.

    • Friday, June 8, 6p
    • San Leonardo
    • Rio Terà San Leonardo, just below the Guglie bridge.
    • No charge
    • From the San Marcuola stop, head toward the main Rio Terà and turn left. San Leonardo is at the back of a big campo on the left.

    About the school (if you can’t read Italian, just look at the illustrations):

    www.liceoartistico.ve.it

    Oh, and Sara’s students have upcoming concerts on the Thursday the 21st and Monday the 25th, at the Scuola Grande di San Teodoro, across from the Chiesa di San Salvador near the Rialto bridge on the San Marco side. These are free concerts, all locals (I am the only import), including one night of lyric opera selections (Rossini, Bellini, and more), another consisting of plethora of delightful Handel duets. Details to follow!

    Alilaguna Arancia line extending to Rialto, Sant’Angelo.

    AlilagunaRialto

    The ticket booth at the vaporetto stop at Carbon down just from the Rialto is coming back to life, being spruced up to herald the arrival of the extension of Alilaguna’s Arancia (orange) from the darsena at Marco Polo Airport, which already connects Murano and the Guglie stop on the Canale Cannaregio. The schedule’s been posted: boats will depart there from 8a to 5p, taking you to Murano in about 30 minutes for €6, or arriving at the Airport in about an hour for a €12 fare. The Arancia line will also service the Sant’Angelo stop, about 5 minutes further down the Canale toward San Marco, much handier to Campo Santo Stefano and nearby lodging. Check the Alilaguna website for complete information.

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